Tubular LED lamps (TLEDs) are a replacement for linear fluorescent lamps. TLEDs are available as T8 or T5 replacement. LED PL Lamps are replacements for PL (plug-in lamps) style CFL lamps.

Also called “plug and play,” Type A lamps are designed to work with a fluorescent ballast, ideally the existing ballast.

Easiest to install No rewiring Quickest solution with the lowest upfront cost Work with existing fluorescent emergency batteries Does not trigger Title 24 because the ballasts are not being removed Some incentive programs accept Type A lamps.

The existing ballast may not be compatible with the new TLED lamp, this leads to change orders and increased costs to change out ballasts. The existing ballast may be at the end of its service life and will fail during installation or shortly thereafter. To the customer, this creates the appearance that “those new lights aren’t working!” This leads to change orders and increased costs to change out ballasts. Mixed technologies: there is still a fluorescent ballast in the fixture. At some point that ballast will fail and the maintenance staff will need to change it. This incurs materials and labor costs down the road. Some incentive programs do not accept Type A lamps because the fixture will still accept fluorescent lamps (because the ballast is still present). T5 Type A lamps are compatible with a very small selection of ballasts. APS recommends replacing ALL the ballasts if choosing a T5 Type A solution.

Also called “ballast bypass,” Type B lamps are designed to work without a fluorescent ballast. They have an internal LED driver (similar to how screw-in CFLs are self ballasted).

The fluorescent ballast is removed; no more ballasts to replace, no concerns over ballast compatibility. This is a long term reduction in maintenance costs. When a Type B lamp fails, there is no trouble shooting, you replace the lamp.

A slightly higher cost for labor and recycling (removal of ballast) Power must be rewired to the lamp holders Depending on type, lamp holders may have to be changed Some TLEDs are “power at one end” models. For these lamps, power has to be connected to the lamp holders properly and the lamp can only be installed one direction. APS uses TLEDs that can accept power at both ends, so this is not an issue. Because the fluorescent ballast was removed, Type B lamps do not work with existing emergency batteries. Some incentive programs do not accept Type B lamps.

Type C lamps have an external driver.

The fluorescent ballast is removed; no more ballasts to replace, no concerns over ballast compatibility. This is a long term reduction in maintenance costs. Most incentive programs accept Type C.

A slightly higher cost for labor and recycling (removal of ballast) A slightly higher cost over Type B lamps Type C lamps typically have a lower lumen/watt rating, so their lamp wattages are typically slightly higher than Types A and B. Power must be run to the external driver and the driver needs to be mounted inside the fixture. Because the fluorescent ballast was removed, Type C lamps do not work with existing emergency batteries.

These kits resemble Type C TLEDs in that they have their own external driver. They do not utilize the existing lamp sockets (a.k.a. lamp holders or tombstones) so they are technically a retrofit kit.

The fluorescent ballast is removed; no more ballasts to replace, no concerns over ballast compatibility. This is a long term reduction in maintenance costs. Most incentive programs accept Type C. Higher lumen/watt output than Type C TLEDs (although still slightly lower than Type B). No need to replace lamp holders (which can also require small amounts of rewiring, which will be avoided). Flexible solution 1. There are 2’ and 4’ options Scalable solution 1. Multiple 2’ or multiple 4’ kits can be linked together for higher lumen solutions. E.g. An existing 2-lamp T8 strip fixture would be retrofit with a 36w retrofit kit consisting of two (2) 18w light bars. An existing 4-lamp T8 strip fixture would be retrofit with a 72w retrofit kit consisting of four (4) 18w light bars.

A slightly higher cost over Type C solutions. Power must be run to the external driver and the driver needs to be mounted inside the fixture. Because the fluorescent ballast was removed, Type C lamps do not work with existing emergency batteries.

Typically there are two (2) different types of hybrid lamps. 1.Type A/B (sometimes called “Magic Tubes” - Lamp can work with or without a ballast 2.Type A/C - Lamp can work with a ballast or an LED driver

Some incentive programs accept hybrid lamps when installed as Type A or as Type C. If installed as Type A, Hybrid Lamps are compatible with existing emergency batteries. When time and recycling are concerns, installing Hybrid Lamps as Type A is quick and easy. Simply replace the fluorescent lamp with the Hybrid Lamps. If installed as Type A, when the ballast eventually fails it can be removed and the LED driver can be installed.

Higher cost compared to other lamp options. Compatibility 1. Existing ballast may be incompatible. This leads to either needing to remove the ballast or replacing the ballast. This can result in a mix of fixtures which have ballasts and those that do not. 2. Existing ballast may be at the end of service life. This leads to either needing to remove the ballast or replacing the ballast. This can result in a mix of fixtures which have ballasts and those that do not. 3. Mixed technologies: the existing ballast will eventually fail and will either need to be replaced or removed. 4. To install as a Type C, a compatible LED driver will be needed. - May be limited to drivers manufactured by the lamp manufacturer. 5. Before choosing to use Type A/C hybrid lamps, you or your contractor will need to be certain that the fluorescent ballast is compatible AND the LED driver being recommended (or stocked on the shelf) are compatible. Not all manufacturers carry Type A/C hybrid lamps. If installed as a Type C lamp, any existing emergency batteries will need to be replaced.

A Type A/B lamp. This lamp can work with or without an existing ballast. Types of TLEDs and LED PL Lamps: Magic Tube, what are the advantages? Some incentive programs accept Magic Tubes when installed as Type A (with the existing ballast). If installed as Type A, Magic Tubes are compatible with existing emergency batteries. When time and recycling are concerns, installing Magic Tubes as Type A is quick and easy. Simply replace the fluorescent lamp with the Magic Tube. If installed as Type A, when the ballast eventually fails it can be removed and the fixture rewired for Type B - no new ballast costs.

Slightly higher cost compared to Type A lamps If installed as Type A 1. Existing ballast may be incompatible. This leads to either needing to remove the ballast or replacing the ballast. This can result in a mix of fixtures which have ballasts and those that do not. 2. Existing ballast may be at the end of service life. This leads to either needing to remove the ballast or replacing the ballast. This can result in a mix of fixtures which have ballasts and those that do not. 3. Mixed technologies: the existing ballast will eventually fail and will either need to be replaced or removed. If installed as Type B 1. Because the fluorescent ballast was removed, the lamps do not work with existing emergency batteries. 2. Some incentive programs do not accept the Magic Tube installed as Type B.

APS takes into account all of the advantages and disadvantages of each lamp type. We consider the customer’s budget, the customer’s requirements (some companies require a specific type of TLED), the incentive program requirements (if applicable), and the existing conditions on the property. Most often APS recommends Type B lamps because this leaves the customer with a single type of technology (no more fluorescent ballasts), avoids change orders due to ballast failures, and they have a higher lumen/watt rating than Type C. In cases where Type B lamps are not accepted by the incentive program (or when customer requirements prohibit their use), APS will recommend a linear retrofit kit. The lumen/watt rating is higher than Type C and the existing lamp holders are no longer utilized and therefore do not need to be replaced or maintained.

Let APS help you decide. We can help you to sort through the options and decide on the lamp type that best suits your needs.

There are several types of emergency backup systems. In order to provide the proper solution, it is important to determine what system is in place. Backup Generator - A building or site with a backup generator has a separate, dedicated circuit connected to both the power grid (the local utility company) and to an emergency generator. During a power outage the emergency generator will turn on and supply power to the emergency circuit. LED retrofits, lamps, and fixtures are compatible with backup generators. No additional materials are required. Emergency Batteries - If your property does not have a separate emergency circuit and a backup generator system, then you may have emergency fixtures on site. There are two typical ways to use battery backup. Fixture integrated batteries - This is the most common emergency system and involves fluorescent fixtures with an emergency backup battery (sometimes called an emergency ballast) connected. If power fails, the battery will continue to provide partial power to the fixture (most are rated for 90 minutes) until battery power runs out. These fixtures must be periodically tested. There is an indicator light and test button installed on or near these fixtures. Fluorescent emergency batteries are designed to deliver the correct power to a fluorescent ballast, which in turn provides power to the fluorescent lamps and will not provide the proper power to LED lamps, fixtures, or retrofits. Depending on the brand installed, the life expectancy of a fluorescent emergency battery is between five (5) and ten (10) years. Centralized batteries - In this situation multiple fixtures are connected to a single emergency backup battery. This can be accomplished by installing a single battery in an area and connecting it to specific fixtures. Or by having a centralized collection of batteries (in a utility room or closet) connected to a separate circuit (similar to the backup generator system). In either of these configurations, if power fails, the battery system will continue to provide partial power to the fixtures until the batteries run out. Emergency Flood Lights - Depending on local safety codes, it is possible that emergency flood lights can be utilized instead of a backup generator or emergency batteries. Often called “bug eyes,” emergency flood lights can be attached to a fixture (commonly seen with exit signs) or can be installed separately on a wall or from the ceiling. These fixtures contain their own emergency battery. When power fails, the flood lights turn on, powered by their integrated batteries. It is also possible to utilize emergency flood lights in a backup generator system.

LED fixtures, LED retrofit kits, and Type B lamps require the existing fluorescent ballasts to be removed and are therefore not compatible with fluorescent emergency batteries. Depending on your wiring system, your fixtures may not work when the emergency battery fails. Before deciding to leave the existing emergency batteries in place, it is important to determine how they are wired to the fixture. Most customers do not know how long the emergency batteries have been in service, it may be a good idea to upgrade them to LED emergency batteries. Even though this is a more expensive option up front, in the long run this will give the property consistency (all the batteries will be of the same age) and will prepare you for other LED upgrades down the road. The LED emergency battery used by APS has a five (5) year warranty and a rated life of five (5) years.

Use Type A LED lamps. The customer can also choose to leave the existing fluorescent ballast in place to further lower costs. - APS does not recommend leaving the existing fluorescent ballasts in place - Keep in mind that this leaves the emergency battery in service and APS cannot guarantee how much of its service life is remaining. Install emergency floodlights. This is more expensive than the option above, but typically is less expensive than replacing the emergency batteries. However, this requires installing new fixtures which typically means running power to them via conduit or, possibly, major construction.

0-10v Dimming Most LED fixtures use 0-10v dimming. This is compatible with most step down dimming sensors, smart control systems, and dimmer systems LED lamps and retrofits are often not dimmable by default. - Retrofits require dimming drivers. - Dimmable lamps are available but must be matched to the type of dimming system in use. Wired systems Sensors and dimmers must be connected to the fixture through an additional wire which controls the dimming. - For integrated sensors (usually on garage fixtures and stairwell fixtures) this is not an issue as the sensor is already wired to the fixture. - For non integrated sensors (typically a single sensor wired to multiple fixtures as is found in hallways and office environments), the sensor must have a wire run to each fixture. This increases the time and materials for the scope of work. Wireless systems - Individual sensors which communicate via bluetooth, microwave, or wifi - Saves on the labor of wiring multiple fixtures to a single sensor or relay. - Takes much of the planning out of deploying sensors . - No need to plan overlapping zones of coverage. - Allows for grouping functionality. Triac Dimming This is the “traditional” dimming system found in homes and offices. Some LED solutions are compatible with Triac. - It may be possible to replace the LED driver with a Triac compatible driver, but this may be a more costly solution. “Dimming” Fluorescent Fixtures Most linear fluorescent lamps are not designed to be dimmed. Even those that are dimmable require a dimming ballast, which can be cost prohibitive. This has led to a variety of fixes, goarounds, and other creative solutions to gather some energy savings by “dimming” the fixture. Title 24 began allowing these methods of “dimming” fixtures when LED technology was still cost prohibitive to most customers Power 50% of the lamps off - By using one or more types of controls, a multi-lamp linear fixture can be “dimmed” by wiring the controls to turn off some (typically half) of the lamps. - This requires multiple ballasts. • The controls are wired to one of the ballasts (thereby controlling the lamps wired to that ballast), while the other ballast (or ballasts) are not connected to the control and run 24/7. • If an emergency battery is connected to this fixture, it will be connected to the non-controlled ballast and lamps. Power 50% of the fixtures off - While less desirable, some facilities go a simpler route than the one lined out above by adding controls to 50% of the fixtures in an area. • In garages this is undesirable as it leaves many dark areas. These can lead to both real and perceived safety hazards. • In stairwells this can be problematic because it is unlikely that 50% of the fixtures can illuminate the area to minimum standards. Mixed technology - There have been various products on the market that employ a mixture of lamp types in order to “dim” the fixture. - Linear fluorescent plus CFL • The solution is a fixture which has one or more linear fluorescent lamps wired to a control and has a CFL (PL or E26 base) which is powered 24/7. • While this solution creates short term energy savings, CFL lamps have a much shorter life than linear lamps and the maintenance staff will spend a great deal of time chasing down failed lamps. • This solution was rarely used and has been essentially abandoned. • However, in some cases the fixture has been retrofit to use TLEDs and an LED lamp. -Linear fluorescent plus cold cathode lamp • A cold cathode lamp is a type of fluorescent lamp with a much longer rated life. They do not ignite or strike as quickly as rapid start fluorescent lamps. • In this solution, the linear fluorescent lamp (or lamps) is wired to a control and the cold cathode lamp is powered 24/7. • This solution was rarely used and has been essentially abandoned.

Also called bi-level switching, step down dimming is typically paired with an occupancy sensor and is used in situations where it is not ideal or not code to turn a fixture off entirely. This is a “set it and forget it” type of lighting control. The sensors will automatically dim fixtures when there is no motion detected. This leads to a great deal of energy savings over the long run. Step down dimming is required by code in many applications. Oftentimes incentive programs will require step down dimming to be used in certain applications Typical applications include garages, stairwells, lighting curfews in exterior fixtures, interior hallways. Light levels drop to a preset lower level when an occupancy sensor has timed out - Example: the last person exits a stairwell, the occupancy sensor scans for motion for a preset time, finds no motion, and the fixture dims down to 50% output (or whatever level is programmed). When motion is detected, the fixture instantly returns to maximum output. Some sensors/dimming systems have the ability to have multiple settings. - Example: an occupancy sensor in a restroom detects no motion, the fixture is dimmed by 10%. Motion is not detected for another 5 minutes, the fixture is dimmed by 10% more. This continues to a preset minimum level. This acts as a warning to anyone in the restroom to make motion that the sensor will detect and bring the fixture back to full power. Some sensors/dimming systems have the ability to regulate how quickly the fixture dims. - Example: APS uses a smart sensor in garages. This sensor can be programmed to dim the lights slowly over the course of several minutes rather than instantly drop the output by 50%. This gives for a soft transition to the lower setting and acts as a reminder to anyone still in the garage to start moving again to bring the fixtures to full power. - Every situation is unique and each incentive program accepts their own particular savings values. Typically APS uses a standard 15% savings if the project is going through an incentive program. However, we have seen savings in excess of 80% in many applications

Energy reduction due to controls varies by technology and application. Most incentive programs accept a predetermined percentage calculation depending on the technology used while ignoring the application. In rare occasions the calculations take into consideration how and where controls are deployed. Typically APS uses the most conservative calculations allowed - Photocells: 50% reduction in usage - All forms of occupancy detecting controls: 15% reduction in usage. The only accurate way to determine the true savings generated by the installation of controls is to install energy data loggers. APS has done this in the past, but only at the request of the customer. Utility companies and incentive programs rarely allow the actual energy reduction to be claimed (which makes using the energy data loggers a moot point).

There is currently no clear definition of Smart Controls and what features they contain. Different manufacturers define these types of controls in different ways. APS Smart Controls APS uses a Smart Control that we typically install on garage fixtures and retrofits LGrouping - This is still a fairly unique technology. - Wireless mesh connects grouped fixtures - Groups of fixtures act as one. If any sensor in the group detects motion, the entire group of fixtures reacts and comes to full brightness. • Feature adds a to the safety and security of the area (eliminating the “murder movie scene” feeling). - VIDEO: Watch a brief demonstration of grouping in action Ster down dimming PIR detection Photocell/daylight harvesting For more advanced Smart Controls, APS uses a system that combines wireless communication, touch screen wall controls, and advanced grouping capabilities. Can be used in almost any situation. Wireless communication between controls helps to avoid the major construction required to add dimming and grouping. Can be installed in a single room, an entire building, or even in exterior applications. Advantages: - Very high end look and feel. - Customized controls. - Wireless connectivity avoids extensive construction and rewiring. - Works with occupancy sensors, photocells, timers, etc. - Scalable - Can be tied into advanced energy management systems. - Can be tied into a central, proprietary control and monitoring system. - Allows for remote access to the control system. Disadvantages: - The larger the area, the greater the amount of time it requires to layout a system. - Short of rewiring and construction for a new energy management system, this type of control system is the most expensive option APS offers.

These are the sensors that you are probably familiar with. They are typically called “motion sensors” and are seen in place of standard wall switches, mounted in the ceiling of open office spaces and restrooms, as an add on to security lighting fixtures, or mounted externally to a linear fixture in a garage. • On/Off controls • More advanced PIR sensors can step down dim an LED fixture or retrofit. Typically these are found on garage fixtures. • “Looks” for motion by scanning the area within its range using infrared light • When there is no motion after a preprogrammed amount of time (called “delay time”), the sensor turns the fixture off. • When motion is detected, the fixture turns on. Or, if the fixture was already on and motion is detected, the delay time is reset and the timer begins again. • Need direct line of sight to be effective.

These are sensors that are activated based on sound. They are typically installed in the ceiling of areas with multiple obstacles that will block the “vision” of a PIR sensor (such as a public restroom). This way, when the lights turn off, the person now in the dark can speak or make noise to turn the lights back on. • Can be paired with PIR sensors (often called “dual technology” sensors”). • On/Off control • “Listens” for vacancy. • If noise is detected, the ultrasonic sensor does not turn the lights off. If no noise is detected for a preset period of time, the sensor will turn the lights off.

Microwave sensors are a newer technology. Like PIR sensors they are detecting motion, but can also detect daylight levels like a photocell. • On/Off/Step down dimming controls • “Looks” for motion by scanning the area within its range using microwaves • When there is no motion after a preprogrammed amount of time (called “delay time”), the sensor adjusts the fixture output to the “low” setting (typically there are preset options such as 0%, 15%, 25%, and 50%). • When motion is detected, the fixture returns to full power. Or, if the fixture was already on and motion is detected, the delay time is reset and the timer begins again. • Do not need direct line of sight to be effective. • Can be used as a photocell for daylight harvesting. - Detects ambient light levels from windows and sky lights. - Turns fixtures OFF when minimum ambient light levels are detected.

Photocells detect the amount of daylight an area is exposed to and controls the light output of a fixture or fixtures. • The simplest photocell is an ON/OFF system. - Can be installed on a fixture (as an add-on feature) or is often integrated into a fixture (particularly decorative exterior fixtures). - Can be installed on the side of a building and connected to an entire circuit. - This is often the method used to turn building wall packs and flood lights on and off according to daylight levels. • More advanced photocell controls have additional features. - Step down dimming for daylight harvesting. - Daylight harvesting is the idea of adjusting lighting levels based on the amount of sunlight coming in through windows and skylights. - Some include time controls that allow the time of day/night to override the photo controls. • Often found in combination with other sensor technologies.

Time controls can be installed either in place of a wall switch, at the panel, or on high end fixtures and controls they can be integrated to the fixture. Twist Timers and Digital Timers • Mounted in place of wall switch. • Most common type that people come across are twist timers - A knob is twisted to the desired duration of time. The lights come on when the timer is engaged and turn off when the timer expires. - These are being replaced by digital timers. • Digital timers are a modern replacement for twist timers. - Instead of a knob, there are preset buttons for different time durations. • Typical applications: - Laundry rooms, restrooms, mechanical rooms, and interior hallways of storage facilities. Time Clocks Time clocks are installed at the panel and control a specific circuit or circuits. The earliest time clocks are simple, with only one ON time and one OFF time. Modern astronomical time clocks can be programmed for multiple ON and OFF times, automatically adjust for daylight savings time, and can be programmed according to sunrise and sunset. Typically outdoor lighting is controlled by a time clock. The most modern time clocks can be used for lighting curfew requirements as well.

Effective Applications • Small rooms - Offices, restrooms, conference rooms, utility rooms, storage closets, etc. - Typically use PIR wallbox sensors. In some cases ceiling sensors are used, typically installed during the original build. • Areas where the lights cannot be turned completely off - Stairwells and garages are most typical. -Depending on the fixture and environment PIR, microwave, or smart controls can be used. • Exterior fixtures - Wall packs, flood lights, monument signs, parking lot poles, etc. - Typically photocells are employed in these applications. - Installed on individual fixtures or wired to a single photocell mounted on the outside of the building. -Timers and astronomical timers can also be used, they are installed at the panel. • Multifamily - Bathrooms - Kitchens - Dining rooms (not always) - Entry/hallway (not always) Ineffective Applications • Anywhere which the capabilities of the controls are obstructed. - No line of sight for a PIR sensor. - Fixtures too far apart for smart controls. - Photocells obstructed by trees or buildings - Photocells being triggered by light from other fixtures • Hallways - Unless installed during the original build, hallways can be cost prohibitive. - Fixtures and retrofits in hallways need to be dimmable. - Multi-load option - Connecting multiple fixtures to a single sensor (typically ceiling mounted). - Wired: very high cost of materials and labor. Ceiling type can make the labor costs skyrocket. - Wireless: high materials cost. Wirelessly meshed sensors are still very expensive. - Integrated or add-on option - Each individual fixture has its own sensor./p> - This can dramatically increase the price of the fixture. - Smart controls - Wireless or wired, these are expensive and do not yield a short payback period. - Typically installed during the original build or in high end buildings.

Occupancy controls typically turn a fixture on or off. In garage and warehouse situations this can ead to being in a large space with many dark areas. As a person walks or drives through the rea, the lights come on as they approach the fixture but remain off further away in all directions. To make matters worse, if the time out setting is too short, the fixtures behind the person are turning off. This creates the feeling that a person is alone in a small pool of light. Or, as one of our customers called it, the murder movie scene. • This can be avoided in many ways. - Adjusting the sensitivity of the detection zone so that the sensor is triggered at the furthest possible distance from the fixture. - Lengthening the time out period so that people have the opportunity to leave the area before the lights begin to “dim” or turn off entirely - Smart Controls with grouping. - True dimming rather than on/off controls.

Many cities are adopting ordinances that address how lighting can be used at night. These laws can vary greatly and can consist of any or all of the following: Turning fixtures off after the defined curfew time. - This may be parsed out even more finely according to what kinds of lighting are on site • Signage • Up lighting • Dark sky compliant lighting • Non dark sky compliant lighting • Security lighting Requiring fixtures to dim a minimum amount after the defined curfew time. This could include: • Parking lot lighting • Walkway lighting • Building lights - In these cases it may be best if a motion sensor (of any kind) be added on or integrated to the fixtures so that light levels can return to full power when motion is detected. • Check the local city ordinances to be certain this is allowed.

There are many factors that go into deciding how to best upgrade a fixture. Budget - what can the customer afford to do? Program requirements - For incentive and/or green loan programs there may be specific requirements for what products and technologies can or cannot be used. - APS can tailor our recommendations to meet these requirements. Aesthetics - Whenever possible, APS avoids altering the style of fixture used at a property - For decorative ceiling and wall mounted fixtures we often recommend our Decorative Retrofit Kit. • We specifically developed this kit for our customers who have a creative team who dictates what fixtures can be installed at a property. • A lamp replacement can also be used in many cases like this, but the light output is not as good as our retrofit kit. - For area lights, specifically parking lot and tall walkway poles, APS recommends our Smart Area Retrofit Kit. Code requirements or company requirements • Some cities and companies (not including what incentive and loan programs require) have restrictions on what technologies can and cannot be used. APS will work within those requirements to find the best solution. - Often there is a restriction on whether Type A or Type B lamps can or cannot be used. Fixture application • Often the type of fixture which is in place is not the type of fixture that should be in place. • APS will take into consideration what lighting is needed and not simply what lighting was in place. • Things to consider: - Height of the fixture. - Location of the fixture. - What is needed in that area. • Security • Area lighting when there are very few existing fixtures • Safety • Finicky neighbors Fixture condition • Some situations will dictate a fixture replacement rather than a retrofit or a lamp replacement. - Rusty or broken fixture body or mounting. - Brittle or cracked lenses. - Missing lenses. - Yellowed lenses (typically acrylic lenses on HID or incandescent fixtures). Type of fixture or how the fixture is mounted • Some fixtures are difficult to replace and need either a lamp or a retrofit kit. - “Step lights” - built recessed into retaining walls and steps these can be difficult to replace. - Soffit lighting

This depends on your existing fixture type, the layout of the lighting in your garage, your budget, and your long term goals. Linear fluorescent Fixtures • TLED retrofit. - Advantages - Lowest upfront cost and is the quickest solution to install. - Disadvantages - Emergency batteries make your choices more complicated - Dimming options are limited as well (most TLEDs are not dimmable, and if they are require dimming ballasts) • Linear retrofit kit - Advantages - Lower installation cost compared to a new fixture. - Better optics and light distribution compared to a fluorescent fixture. - Can be paired with step down dimming and smart sensors. - Keep the same fixture body, less wiring, no change in footprint. - Disadvantages - Higher price point compared to TLED retrofit. - Emergency fixtures will need a new, LED emergency battery. • A new, linear LED fixture - Advantages - Brand new fixture under warranty (not simply the lamps) - Better optics and light distribution compared to a fluorescent fixture. - Can be paired with step down dimming and smart sensors. - Fixture footprint is close to the original footprint - Disadvantages - Higher price point compared to retrofits - Emergency fixtures will need a new, LED emergency battery. • A new, non-linear LED fixture - Advantages - Brand new fixture under warranty (not simply the lamps) - Better optics and light distribution compared to a linear fixture. - Can be paired with step down dimming and smart sensors. - Disadvantages - Higher price point compared to retrofits - Fixture footprint is different • Painting may be required • Fixture footprint is different - Emergency fixtures will need a new, LED emergency battery. High Intensity Discharge (HID) Many older garages are still using metal halide (MH), high pressure sodium (HPS), or even low pressure sodium (LPS) fixtures. HID lamps have a rated life of about 15,000 hours, run very hot, cannot be dimmed, are difficult to pair with emergency batteries, and often the lenses are old, yellowed, and brittle. • CFL retrofit - APS does not recommend this under any circumstances - Lower lamp life (7 - 10,000 hours) which leads to more maintenance costs down the road. - Less light which leads to a poorly lit garage, safety issues, and customer complaints. - HID fixtures typically are old, their lenses are brittle and yellowed, and the lamp sockets of the fixture are often brittle as well. This leads to broken parts during the installation. - Yellowed HID lenses block much of the light from the lamp. • Corn lamp retrofit - Typically APS does not recommend this solution. - HID fixtures typically are old, their lenses are brittle and yellowed, and the lamp sockets of the fixture are often brittle as well. This leads to broken parts during the installation. - Yellowed HID lenses block much of the light from the lamp. • LED retrofit kit - Advantages - Lower installation cost compared to a new fixture. - Some can be paired with step down dimming and smart sensors. - Keep the same fixture body, less wiring, no change in footprint. - Disadvantages - HID fixtures typically are old, their lenses are brittle and yellowed, and the lamp sockets of the fixture are often brittle as well. This leads to broken parts during the installation. - Yellowed HID lenses block much of the light from the lamp. - Emergency fixtures will need a new, LED emergency battery. - Requires a retrofit kit which is rated for enclosed spaces. Not all retrofit kits are rated for this. • A new, linear LED fixture - Advantages - Brand new fixture under warranty (not simply the lamps) - Better optics and light distribution, new lenses - Can be paired with step down dimming and smart sensors. - Disadvantages - Higher price point compared to retrofits - Emergency fixtures will need a new, LED emergency battery - Fixture footprint is different - Painting may be required - Conduit may need to be extended • A new, non-linear LED fixture - Advantages - Brand new fixture under warranty (not simply the lamps) - Better optics and light distribution compared to a linear fixture. New lenses. - Can be paired with step down dimming and smart sensors. - Disadvantages - Higher price point compared to retrofits - Fixture footprint is different - Painting may be required - Conduit may need to be extended - Emergency fixtures will need a new, LED emergency battery.

It is becoming more common that we find garages which have had some level of energy efficiency upgrade done in the past. Controls may have been added to fluorescent fixtures, TLED lamps could have been installed, mixed technologies are often found in the same fixture, and more. APS has extensive experience with garage lighting and has encountered many different scenarios. Below are some specific situations that we have found and options on how to deal with them. The Customer Wants Occupancy Controls on a Linear Fixture Often in this situation the customer wants to utilize TLEDs (or only has the budget for TLEDs). We first need to know more about the existing conditions. Linear fluorescent lamps or TLEDs

0-10v Dimming Most LED fixtures use 0-10v dimming. This is compatible with most step down dimming sensors, smart control systems, and dimmer systems LED lamps and retrofits are often not dimmable by default. - Retrofits require dimming drivers. - Dimmable lamps are available but must be matched to the type of dimming system in use. Wired systems Sensors and dimmers must be connected to the fixture through an additional wire which controls the dimming. - For integrated sensors (usually on garage fixtures and stairwell fixtures) this is not an issue as the sensor is already wired to the fixture. - For non integrated sensors (typically a single sensor wired to multiple fixtures as is found in hallways and office environments), the sensor must have a wire run to each fixture. This increases the time and materials for the scope of work. Wireless systems - Individual sensors which communicate via bluetooth, microwave, or wifi - Saves on the labor of wiring multiple fixtures to a single sensor or relay. - Takes much of the planning out of deploying sensors . - No need to plan overlapping zones of coverage. - Allows for grouping functionality. Triac Dimming This is the “traditional” dimming system found in homes and offices. Some LED solutions are compatible with Triac. - It may be possible to replace the LED driver with a Triac compatible driver, but this may be a more costly solution. “Dimming” Fluorescent Fixtures Most linear fluorescent lamps are not designed to be dimmed. Even those that are dimmable require a dimming ballast, which can be cost prohibitive. This has led to a variety of fixes, goarounds, and other creative solutions to gather some energy savings by “dimming” the fixture. Title 24 began allowing these methods of “dimming” fixtures when LED technology was still cost prohibitive to most customers Power 50% of the lamps off - By using one or more types of controls, a multi-lamp linear fixture can be “dimmed” by wiring the controls to turn off some (typically half) of the lamps. - This requires multiple ballasts.